Episode 15 · Seoul

Seoul, a lost river runs through it.

Annyeonghaseyo! Tiny Zara enters Seoul in a rose-pink hanbok — tasting Gwangjang Market, joining the city’s rituals, and following the sound of water beneath the streets.

GWANGJANG → GYEONGBOKGUNG → BUKCHON → HONGDAE → CHEONGGYECHEON
Tiny Zara laughing on a giant leaf as Cheonggyecheon, the river Seoul brought back, rushes into the light>
Zara is 3 cm tall. On Cheonggyecheon, a leaf is a boat.
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Watch this episode with Zara.

The full Tiny Travels episode: palace Seoul, electric street life, and the river that came back to life.

Widescreen · 16:94:45
01 / The lost river

A river Seoul buried—then brought back.

Detective Zara is on the case. Cheonggyecheon once ran through the center of Seoul, vanished beneath concrete and an elevated road, then returned when the city made an audacious choice.

Zara splashing on a leaf as the freed river bursts through the old channel wall
The river that returnedWater, light and walking paths now fill the corridor where traffic once thundered overhead.
Zara setting a glowing lotus lantern on Cheonggyecheon at night, lanterns reflected in the river
Case closed.Zara followed the sound beneath a street grate. Seoul removed the elevated highway, reopened the channel in 2005, and gave the river space again.
10.8 kmthe stream’s approximate route through central Seoul
2003the highway removal and restoration began
2005Cheonggyecheon reopened as public space
3 cmZara’s height for the journey
The honest footnote: today’s flow is partly pumped rather than fully natural. The return is engineered—but the water runs, people gather, and the city made room for a river again.
02 / Zara’s Seoul

What Seoul gives a tiny traveler.

A hanbok made for motion, market food bigger than she is, a sauna ritual, and a neon karaoke night.

Zara in a rose-pink chima and mint jeogori inside a Seoul hanbok shop

Palace-ready hanbok

Rose-pink chima, mint jeogori and a tiny norigae pendant. Wearing hanbok also qualifies visitors for free entry at Seoul’s royal palaces.

Zara beside an enormous sizzling bindaetteok griddle at Gwangjang Market

Gwangjang Market

Bindaetteok, mayak gimbap, tteokbokki and hotteok turn one of Seoul’s oldest major traditional markets into a giant-scale food trail.

Zara wearing a yangmeori towel inside a Seoul jjimjilbang

Jjimjilbang ritual

Yangmeori towel on, sikhye ready: Zara tackles the hot room, the ice room and a classic baked-egg break.

Zara dancing with musicians and a cheering crowd on a neon Hongdae street

Noraebang & Hongdae

A private coin-karaoke room gives way to Hongdae after dark, where buskers teach Zara an original move and the street joins in.

안녕하세요Annyeonghaseyo · polite “hello”
맛있어요Masisseoyo · “it’s delicious”
빨리빨리Ppalli-ppalli · “quickly, quickly”
Seoul did not simply remember the river. It chose to give the river space again.
Zara · detective mode, Cheonggyecheon
04 / Seoul’s greatest hits

Seoul’s greatest hits.

Palace roofs, lived-in hanok lanes, love locks, lanterns and the fortress walls of nearby Suwon.

Notes & further reading

River buried. Highway built. Highway removed. Water returned.

THIS is Seoul… and it flows again.
Your turn

Road or river — what would you choose?

Seoul buried Cheonggyecheon under a six-lane highway, then tore the highway down to bring her back.

Tell Zara.

Pick a side, then leave the why on YouTube — that's where this investigation keeps going.

Where should Zara investigate next?